SHRUB LESPEDEZAS
Natob Bicolor lespedeza
(Lespedeza bicolor Turcz)
Uses
Seed of Natob Bicolor lespedeza is excellent fall and winter food for
bobwhite quail. Pheasants and songbirds like the seed and rabbits and
deer browse the foliage. Tests have shown that it is a high quality
food for these animals.
Honeybees frequent the flowers and from them make a high-grade honey.
Because Natob Bicolor lespedeza blooms when few other good honey plants
are available, it is valuable to beekeepers. Its masses of late summer
blooms make an attractive landscaping feature when the plants are used
in borders and hedges.
Natob Bicolor lespedeza can be used alone or in combination with other
plants. A particularly productive combination for wildlife improvement
is a wide border of bicolor and a low-growing shrub. The bicolor should
be planted next to the fence or woodland.
Natob Bicolor lespedeza can be used in a number of locations on the
farm. The zone of poor crop growth in field borders and along woodlands
is a good place to plant lespedeza. It is particularly useful in small
areas devoted to wildlife habitat, on marginally productive soils, and
in woodland openings. The fibrous root system and good litter-producing
qualities make lespedeza an excellent erosion control plant.
Characteristics
Natob Bicolor lespedeza is a large, leguminous shrub. Allowed to grow
naturally, it reaches a height of 8 to 10 feet. The stems are 1 inch
or more in diameter at the base and well-branched. If cut back near
the ground, the shrub produces numerous stems of lesser diameter and
height. Eventually, if not cut back, lespedeza's older stems will gradually
die back to the ground to be replaced by new wood. The plant contains
an abundance of reserve basal buds, which insure good recovery in case
the first tender growth of spring is injured by frost. The plant has
a heavy, multi-branching root system.
Natob blossoms and matures seed earlier than other strains of Bicolor
lespedeza. Usually, the flowers appear first in late June and early
July and continue for four to six weeks. This is at least a month earlier
than common bicolor. The flowers are pinkish purple and remain open
only one day.
Seed matures in late September or early October. Dark purplish-brown
or mottled brown in color, the seed occurs singly in oval pods about
1/4 inch long. Some plants hold part of their seed into the winter,
but most of it drops in autumn. Usually 80 to 90 percent of the seeds
fall by the first of January.
Adaptation
Shrub lespedezas can be used in droughty, well-drained soils or in
imperfectly drained and slightly acid to slightly alkaline soils. They
perform well in most soil textures; the exception to this is in soils
with poor drainage.
Establishment and Maintenance
Plantings are established by sowing the seed or transplanting nursery
grown, one-year-old seedlings. The best time to plant is in spring,
just after the danger of killing frost is past. The seed coat is hard
and should be scarified for successful germination. Mechanical scarification
is preferable because of the simplicity of this method.
Natob Bicolor can be drilled into rows or broadcast. If drilled,
the seeding rate should be 2 to 4 pounds per acre and if broadcast,
the seeding rate should be 5 to 10 pounds per acre at a depth of 3 inches.
The seed must be inoculated at the time of seeding. Unless the soil
is fertile, apply 300 to 500 pounds per acre of 0-20-20 fertilizer before
or at the time of planting. Widely spaced row plantings should be cultivated
the first and second years to control weeds. Thereafter, the growth
of lespedeza is sufficiently strong to prevent weed competition.
Clip the weeds on solid seeded areas the first year when they overtop
the lespedeza. Be sure to clip above the tops of the lespedeza plants.
Management
Cutting back the plants has the effect of retarding seed maturity,
which increases the risk of the plants becoming frost damaged before
the seed matures. Seed ripening is characterized by a yellowing of the
leaves, which usually begins by mid-September.
To insure continuously satisfactory growth and seed yields, a yearly
application of fertilizer usually is necessary in the early spring.
Use 100 to 200 pounds per acre of 0-20-20.
Shrub lespedezas reproduce only from seed and do not spread outside
of the planting area. They are very palatable to livestock and are easily
destroyed by domestic animals or even by heavy deer concentrations.
They should be protected if used along pasture boundaries.
VA-70 Shrub lespedeza
(Lespedeza thunbergii)
(Perennial)
Uses
VA-70 lespedeza (thunbergii) is used for wildlife food and cover
in hedges and border plantings. The seeds are a desirable fall and winter
food for pheasants, bobwhite quail, and many songbirds. Rabbit and deer
browse the foliage. Honeybees like the flowers and produce a quality
honey from them. Like Natob Bicolor, the masses of late summer blooms
are an attractive landscaping feature.
Characteristics
Related to Bicolor lespedeza, VA-70 Shrub lespedeza is an excellent
shrub that grows 7 to 8 feet in height. A slow starter the first year,
the shrub will produce seed in the second year. It provides excellent
cover during the summer and winter months and is ideal for stream or
ditch banks, the edges of woods, or small comers of hard-to-farm areas.
It can also be used as a low hedgerow with other plantings on either
side. VA-70 lespedeza has shown no indication of spreading into agriculture
fields. It can be used alongside or in combination with other plants.
A particularly productive combination for wildlife improvement is to
use switchgrass and lespedeza as complementary plantings. The lespedeza
provides excellent food and some cover, while the switchgrass remains
standing most of the winter, providing quality cover. However, switchgrass
should not be permitted to invade the bicolor stand. Bicolor lespedeza
stands should remain relatively open at ground level.
Planting
Prepare a clean, firm, weed-free seedbed. The seed can be broadcast
on a well-prepared area, followed by the use of a cultipacker or roller,
or it may be drilled with a conventional grain drill or cultipacker
seeder. Seeding dates are from April 15 to May 15 with a direct seeding
rate of 8 to 10 pounds per acre at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch. A rate
of 16 pounds per acre in mixtures is recommended for broadcast seeding.
VA-70 is a legume, so you must obtain the appropriate fresh, viable
inoculant. If weeds become a problem, mow the weeds down to the height
of the lespedeza. Once the VA-70 is established, weeds are seldom a
problem. It is best to plant 1/8 to 1/4 acre plots with 300 feet in
between.
VA-70 lespedeza grows well in all soil types except deep sand or extreme
lime soils. The flowers appear in late summer and are pink to purple.
The seeds are black. Seed maturity ranges from late September to early
October. VA-70 lespedeza produces between 300 to 500 pounds of seed
per acre per year. If switchgrass is seeded with this shrub, the establishment
techniques discussed above should be used. Five to 7 pounds of switchgrass
will provide a good mixture.
Apply fertilizer before or at the time of seeding. Fertilize according
to soil test. If no test is available, apply 300 to 500 pounds per acre
of 0-12-12 or 0-20-20 fertilizer. Lime to 6.5 if pH is below 5.5. Do
not use a nurse crop when seeding.
VA-70 lespedeza can be planted no-till, but existing weeds and vegetation
need to be killed prior to planting to eliminate competition.
Adaptation
VA-70 lespedeza can be used on soils that are droughty, well drained,
or somewhat poorly drained. It does not do well in poorly drained soils.
Seed maturity requires a growing season of approximately 160 frost-free
days.
Management Recommendations
- Weed control might be required the first year. This is best accomplished
by mowing when the weeds are 18 to 24 inches tall and clipping them
to the same height as the lespedeza.
- Mow every three years in late winter to a height not less than 4
inches.
- Control noxious weeds.
Amquail Shrub lespedeza
(Lespedeza thunbergii Nakai)
(Perennial)
Characteristics
The official name of this new lespedeza, "Amquail" thunberg lespedeza
(Lespedeza thunbergii Nakai), indicates that it is a variety
of (L. thunbergii). The "Am" in its name comes from its place
of origin—the new lespedeza was developed by the Soil Conservation
Service at the USDA Plant Materials Center near Americus, Georgia. "Quail"
comes from the much-improved variety's ability to produce an abundance
of hard-coated seeds that are the preferred winter food of quail. Hence
the name "Amquail."
Amquail is related to Bicolor lespedeza (Lespedeza Bicolor)
and is very difficult to distinguish from Bicolor in winter. Amquail
is relatively new to Maryland, but appears to grow satisfactorily here.
The perennial legume grows well and produces a generous amount of seed
in the South. It will grow to a height of 6 to 8 feet, and produces
an abundance of high-quality winter food for quail. Little browsed by
deer, Amquail is especially recommended for planting in areas with dense
populations of deer. It will produce seed in the second year and provide
good cover during the winter months.
Individual plants of Amquail may contain up to eight or more stems.
The stems rise from a crown-like stump near the ground. Young stems
are purplish. For the most part, the flowers are rose-purple, but a
few are white. Blooming is at a peak from mid-August to early September.
Most of the seeds are black, but a few are reddish or reddish-brown.
Seeds ripen in October and early November. Some fall to the ground soon
after they ripen. Others remain on the plant and are shed gradually
during fall and winter. Amquail seeds are most valuable to quail from
late December to early March when other foods are scarce or absent.
Some coveys feed almost exclusively on Amquail in those months.
Advantages of Amquail
The development of Amquail is a major advancement in habitat management
for quail in the Southeast--possibly the biggest since the introduction
of Bicolor in the late 1930s and early 1940s. Amquail has one major
advantage over most other shrub Lespedezas -- it is resistant to deer
browse. This advantage far outweighs AmquaiFs few limitations.
Limitations of Amquail
Two years are usually required for Amquail to become a dependable producer
of seed. Like Bicolor and other shrub lespedezas, Amquail is easily
destroyed by livestock. For that reason, it should not be planted where
livestock will have access to it.
It does not thrive on wet, waterlogged soils and does not grow well
on deep, fine sands or highly alkaline soils. However, it does grow
better on sandier soils than Bicolor and other shrub lespedezas. Like
other shrub lespedezas, Amquail starts spreading after ten to twelve
years, especially on heavier soils that are prescribe burned in winter.
Fire causes Amquail and other shrub lespedezas to spread on heavier
soils. The exact reason for this is unknown, but we do know that fire
breaks the hard coat of seed on the ground. This allows moisture and
oxygen to enter the seed, a condition that favors germination. Fire
also removes a good bit of organic matter from under the shrub lespedezas.
That allows more of the seed to be in contact with bare soil, which
also favors germination. It appears, therefore, that these two factors
are primarily responsible for the spread of shrub lespedezas after several
years of prescribed burning.
Why is the spreading more noticeable on heavier soils? It might be
because more of the seedlings survive on the heavier soils, which usually
contain more moisture near the surface than do sandier soils. Seedlings
require a good bit of moisture in order to survive, especially during
their first few weeks.
Even though Amquail has a tendency to spread after ten to twelve years,
it usually does not become a pest. It does not spread into cropland
or pastureland. Its spreading can be controlled by grazing in spring,
summer, and fall. Grazing by livestock at that time completely eliminates
Amquail, Bicolor, and the other shrub lespedezas.
Planting
Use the same planting procedures used for Bicolor Shrub lespedeza.
As stated above, Amquail does not thrive on wet, waterlogged soils;
deep, fine sands; or grow well on highly alkaline soils. However, it
does grow better on sandier soil than Bicolor or other shrub lespedezas.
Other Considerations
If you want to provide winter food for quail on an area that occasionally
will be prescribe burned and you are concerned about the spread of Amquail,
Bicolor, and other shrub lespedezas, consider planting Partridge Pea
(Cassia fasciculata) or Kobe lespedeza (Lespedeza striate),
or both.
Partridge Pea grows well on both sandy and clay soils. Kobe lespedeza
should only be planted on heavier soils. Neither is browsed by deer
to any appreciable extent. Both reseed every year, especially if prescribe
burned in February every two to three years. In fact, they reseed better
if prescribe burned every February. Neither Partridge Pea nor Kobe lespedeza
grow as tall as Amquail and other shrub lespedezas, and neither will
become a pest. Both are easy to control--stop prescribe burning and,
after a few years, Partridge Pea and Kobe lespedeza will disappear.
NONSHRUB LESPEDEZAS
(LOW-GROWTH FORM)
Sericea lespedeza
(Lespedeza cuneata)
(Perennial)
Characteristics
Sericea lespedeza is an upright-growing perennial, 3 to 5 feet tall,
with excellent cover and feed production abilities. Sericea should be
planted in strips, patches, or next to taller shrubs, hedgerows, or
at the edges of woods. Seed production usually will not occur until
the second year. There are several superior cultivars: 'Interstate',
'Appalow' (a low-growing form), 'Caricea', and 'Seriala'.
Planting
Start with a clean, firm, weed-free seedbed. Plant seed shallow
(0 to 1/2 inch) at the rate of hulled and scarified seed (i.e., 10 to
20 pounds per acre in mixtures). Increase the rate by 10 to 15 pounds
per acre for unscarified or unhulled seed as soon as the soil can be
worked in the spring (March until May). Because lespedeza is a legume,
you will need to obtain the appropriate flesh, viable inoculant from
your seed supplier (lower pH limit is 4.5). Apply 50 to 100 pounds of
both P2O5 and K2O prior to planting,
as you would to most legumes.
Comments
Major uses for Sericea lespedeza include watershed protection (long-term
cover), aesthetics, and forage. Stand establishment is relatively slow,
so the stand area should be sown with a quick-cover grass. In a mixture
with grass, Sericea lespedeza usually becomes the dominant species in
three to four years and forms dense stands that retard the natural invasion
of other plants. Considered low in value for wildlife by most biologists,
Sericea lespedeza nevertheless benefits tree growth in combination plantings,
provided the trees are able to grow above it. Stands are weakened or
eliminated when shaded by forest species. Sericea Lespedeza provides
long-term or permanent cover that requires little or no maintenance.
Appalow Sericea lespedeza
(Lespedeza cuneata Appalow)
Characteristics
Appalow Sericea is basically the same as Sericea except it has a prostrate
or low lateral growth habit of about 10 to 12 inches in height. Appalow
is an excellent producer of seeds and provides a low, dense cover ideal
for quail.
Planting
Seed early spring no later than May at the rate of 16 pounds per
acre with a planting depth of 0 to 1/2 inch. Prepare the soil as for
Sericea and use lespedeza inoculant.
Korean lespedeza
(Lespedeza stipulacea)
(Annual)
Characteristics
Lespedeza stipulacea reseeds readily and is well adapted to a wide
range of temperatures, thus, it can be used as a long-term component
of vegetative cover. Stipulacea provides an early or quick legume component
in spring-sown grass-legume mixtures. Plant residue provides poor ground
cover in winter. Stipulacea is more sensitive than Sericea and Kobe
lespedeza to excess soil manganese and soil acidity. The seed is a preferred
food of quail. Similar to Kobe lespedeza, Stipulacea produces high quality
hay, but has a shorter growing season and can be used farther north.
It generally is not recommended for the northernmost parts of the Appalachian
region and interior regions of Maryland. Stipulacea's major uses include
wildlife food, forage (hay and pasture), forestry (companion legume
with trees), and watershed (early cover).
Planting
Seed at a rate of 6 to 12 pounds per acre in mixtures or 10 to 25
pounds per acre alone. Plant shallow at a depth of 0 to 1/2 inch.
The rate of establishment is moderate to rapid; the lower pH limit is
5.0. Planting should occur in early spring (February to March).
Common lespedeza
(Lespedeza striate)
Kobe lespedeza
(Lespedeza striate var. Kobe)
Characteristics
Common lespedeza (also called Japanese lespedeza, Japanese clover,
and striate lespedeza) has a low-growth form and does not produce as
much herbage as the improved variety, Kobe. Kobe is the most widely
used and most familiar cultivar of common lespedeza. Similar to Korean
Lespedeza in growth form, Common lespedeza matures later and is not
adaptable as far north, but it is more tolerant of high levels of manganese
in the soil than Korean lespedeza. Reseeding readily in its adapted
climatic range, Common lespedeza generally is used to quickly establish
a legume in mixtures with grasses or with grasses and perennial legumes.
Common lespedeza is recommended as a ground cover species for use with
pine in the Southern Pine region. Growth stops after the first killing
frost and the cover value of plant residue diminishes as winter progresses.
Major uses of Common lespedeza include wildlife food, forage (hay and
pasture), and forestry (companion legume with trees).
Planting
Seeding rate is 8 to 15 pounds per acre in mixtures and 20 to 40
pounds per acre alone from February to March. Planting depth is 0 to
1/2 inch. The lower pH limit is 4.5. The elevation limit is 2,000
feet at the northern limits of its range. Superior cultivars include
Kobe.
AGRICULTURAL FOOD
AND COVER PLANTINGS
Trailing soybean
(Annual)
Characteristics
Trailing soybean has the desirable characteristic of climbing stiff-stalked
plants. Sometimes, it will reseed itself. Grain sorghum (milo), corn,
and sunflowers work well as support plants for these bean varieties.
Most of the vines will be held off the ground, providing both cover
and food during periods of snow. The seeds are about half the size of
standard soybeans.
Planting
Plant trailing soybean like any other soybean. Because seeds are small,
plant at a rate of 25 pounds per acre in rows or at 40 to 50 pounds
per acre if broadcast. Plant from May 15 to July 15 at a depth of 1
to 3 inches. Corn, milo, or sunflowers, if included, should compose
30 to 60 percent of the mix. Fertilizer should be applied as if planting
regular soybeans.
Partridge pea
(Cassia fasciculata)
(Annual)
Characteristics
Partridge Pea is an annual reseeding plant when managed properly. It
is a legume, native to Maryland, with a beautiful yellow flower. The
seed is a favorite quail food, and rabbits devour the stalks during
the winter. It grows well mixed with natural weeds and grasses, but
can also be planted in pure stands. The pH should be between 5.5 and
6.5. In the absence of a soil test, apply fertilizer at a rate of 50
to 100 pounds of P2O5 and K2O prior
to planting.
Planting
Plant the peas April to June 1. Disk the soil to remove and
bury existing vegetation. Sow at the rate of 12 to 20 pounds per
acre at a depth of 1/2 to 3/4 inch. The following spring, disk the
same area again lightly, or administer a light prescribed bum in February
to encourage the Partridge Pea to reestablish.
White Clover
(Trifolium repens)
Ladino Clover
(Trifolium repens L)
Characteristics
Common white clover is used for pasture throughout the eastern United
States. However, it is primarily used for wildlife habitat and forage
to provide diversity in species composition, especially in food patches
or openings planted for wildlife. Common white clover should be planted
with grasses and other legumes. Planted alone, it provides inadequate
ground cover during the winter. Due to its peculiar growth and reproductive
habits, there is no assurance of stand persistency from year to year.
Although common white clover is usually considered a perennial, much
of the new growth each year volunteers from seed. Ladino, a large form
of white clover, is the most widely sown cultivar for use as hay and
pasture.
Planting
Seed at a rate of one to two pounds per acre at a depth of 1/4 to
1/2 inch from February to April 1 and August 15 to September 15.
The lower pH limit is 5.5. 'Ladino', 'Regal', and Tillman' are a few
of the superior cultivars. Fertilize with 50 to 100 pounds of P2C5
and K2O at planting. Common white clover should be mowed
once during summer to promote growth for fall.
General Comments on Poultry
Manure as a Fertilizer
Manure is a good cheap fertilizer source, but it should be analyzed
to ensure proper rates. Manure testing and recommendations can be obtained
from your county Cooperative Extension office.
The average nutrient content of broiler litter samples is listed in
the following chart in pounds per ton at 22 percent moisture (average
moisture).
| Nutrients |
lb/ton |
| Total N |
86 |
| NH4-N |
16 |
| P2O5 |
68 |
| K2O |
41 |
| Ca |
31 |
| Mg |
16 |
| S |
11 |
| Mn |
1 |
| Zn |
1 |
| Cu |
1 |
Other than nitrogen, most of the nutrients are available the first
year. The ammonium nitrogen will be lost unless the manure is incorporated,
snowed on, or rained on. Under normal weather conditions, the ammonium
will volatilize away in six days. Therefore, if the manure is incorporated
or if it rains three days after application, half the ammonium will
be lost. The remainder of the nitrogen becomes available over a period
of time.
In most cases, 2 tons per acre of average poultry manure will supply
sufficient nutrients to meet the needs of wildlife cover crops.
WARM AND COOL
SEASON GRASSES
Characteristics
The growth habits and attributes of the warm season grasses recommended
in this section include
- a strong root system to hold the soil;
- growing in bunches (these are not turf-forming grasses, such as
fescue);
- remaining standing throughout the winter, providing cover for wildlife
as well as filtering sediment from runoff;
- growing well on low fertility soils; and
- in some cases, such as eastern gamagrass, providing high quality
pasture forage and hay. (Pasture use must be carefully controlled
to protect nesting birds.)
In general, warm season grasses are not considered high quality forage,
except for eastern gamagrass. Their main attribute as forage is that
they produce 1 1/2 to 2 times the yield of cool season grasses, even
in low fertility sites.
However, warm season grasses are able to provide forage during the
summer slump when cool season grasses are not productive.
Warm season grasses are slower to establish than the more familiar
cool season grasses traditionally planted, so be patient. It may take
two growing seasons for a grassy area to fully establish itself. Once
a stand is established, the benefits of low maintenance, long stand
life, increased wildlife, and improved water quality (when part of a
riparian forest buffer) far outweigh the extra initial effort.
In general, native, warm season grasses are not especially shade tolerant.
A possible solution when planted next to a forested area (as with a
riparian forest buffer) is to incorporate a shrub transition area between
the grasses and the trees.
Site Preparation
Proper site preparation is critical to the success of any planting.
Remove existing vegetation by herbicide use, cultivation, or a combination
of the two. Soil test sites and bring fertility up to medium level for
phosphorus and potassium. Do not apply nitrogen to warm season grass
planting sites. Nitrogen will only stimulate weeds that could dominate
the warm season grass seedlings. Finally, pH levels should be between
5 and 8 for warm season grass plantings. If necessary, apply lime as
indicated.
Existing Turf Fields
A) Applying herbicides: Use a nonpersistent, glyphosate-based herbicide
such as Roundup. Follow manufacturers' instructions.
- Apply in previous fall and in mid-spring for spring plantings.
- Apply once in early fall for fall planting.
- Till soil and plant. Remove dead sod to create smooth seedbed.
Existing Agricultural Fields
A) Applying herbicides: Spray once in mid-spring for spring planting,
or once in early fall after removal of crop for fall planting. Till
soil and plant, or use no-till seeder and plant directly into soil.
B) Cultivation: Work up seedbed as for any other crop. If rhizomatous
perennials are present, work up soil all year, as recommended in section
"Old Fields." After the existing vegetation is removed, the seedbed
should be prepared by tilling or disking, and then dragging or raking
smooth. Properly prepared seedbeds will be smooth and free of large
clumps.
Old Fields
A) Applying herbicides: Mow in early spring, then spray twice, once
in mid- to late- spring and once in early fall. Till soil after final
spraying and plant, or use no-till seeder and plant directly into dead
sod.
B) Cultivation: Prior to planting, cultivate soil 4 to 6 inches deep
periodically throughout the growing season to kill rhizomatous perennial
weeds. After the final cultivation late in the year, a dormant fall
seeding can be made. If further weed control is desired, the planting
can be done the following spring, allowing for light surface cultivation
to kill weeds prior to spring planting.
Planting
With few exceptions, warm season grasses should be planted using a
specialized warm season or rangeland grass planter or drill. In fine
soils, all species should be drilled as shallow as possible, 1/4 to
1/2 inch, except eastern gamagrass, which should be planted 3/4 to 1
inch. In coarse, sandy soils, it is recommended that all species be
planted 3/4 to 1 inch, except for eastern gamagrass, which should be
planted 1 to 1 1/2 inch. Seeds tend to dry out and not germinate if
planted too shallow in these sandy soils. Planting seed any deeper will
prevent adequate germination. If a drill is not available, clean seed
can be broadcast or drop-seeded (with a cultipacker seeder) onto a firm
seedbed, except for eastern gamagrass, which needs to be drilled.
Fall Planting--Plant from early
September to first freeze
Generally it is not recommended to fall plant any of the warm season
grasses, except for eastern gamagrass. The cool season grasses, as well
as the eastern gamagrass, can be fall planted after the first killing
frost.
Advantages:
- Seed over winters and comes up in spring when conditions are right.
- In general, forb seed has greater germination.
- Recommended for planting on droughty soils, because seeds germinate
when soil moisture levels are optimal.
Disadvantages:
- Grass seed often has poorer germination.
- Because weeds will have a head start the following spring, there
is limited opportunity for early season weed control by cultivation.
- It is NOT recommended for clay soils, due to difficulty in preparing
a proper seedbed after dry summer months.
Early Spring Planting--Plant from March to April
Advantages:
- Forbs will germinate better than those planted in late spring.
- Grass seeds will germinate better than those planted in fall.
- Droughty soils should be planted as soon as possible in spring,
if it is not possible to plant in fall.
Disadvantages:
- Limited opportunity for early, cool season weed control.
- It is NOT recommended to plant heavy soils in early spring, because
it is difficult to work these soils.
Late Spring Planting--Plant from May to end of June
Advantages:
- More time for soil preparation. This is important for planting on
heavy soils.
- Longer time for weed control.
- Best time to plant warm season grasses.
Disadvantages:
- Increased chance of drought conditions.
- Overall, poorer for germination, except for warm season species.
Many cool season species will not germinate until fall or the next
spring. This allows the weeds a one-year head start.
Broadcast Planting
Broadcast planting includes spreading seed with fertilizer spreaders,
other spinner-type seeders, and drop-seeders. Warm season grass seeds
are light and fluffy because of attached "parachutes" that facilitate
wind dispersal. For successful broadcast planting, the seed needs to
be clean. This means seed that it is at least 75 percent pure-live seed
(75 percent PLS) and/or debearded. Seed that is less than 75 percent
PLS should only be planted with a specialized warm season grass drill
or planter.
When broadcast seeding, extreme care must be taken to ensure good seed-to-soil
contact while limiting maximum seed depth to 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Seed should
be rolled lightly after seeding. However, do not be concerned about
covering all of the seed. In fact, it is better to leave some on the
surface rather than cover it too heavily.
Planting Steps
- Prepare soil for planting by tilling (plow, disk, and drag). Raking
or dragging will loosen the soil to allow incorporation of the seed
into the surface soil.
- Inoculate legume seeds prior to planting. Mix inoculated legume
seeds with forb/wildflower seeds. These can be mixed together with
the grass seed to form a uniform mix. Plant the mixed seed.
- Drag lightly and firm with a roller or cultipacker; avoid firming
soil when wet.
Note: On steep slopes, it is often beneficial to plant a quick-germinating
nurse crop and/or mulch the planting.
Post-Planting Maintenance (Warm Season Grasses)
Year One. If straw mulch is used, control annual weeds by mowing
to 4 to 6 inches in the first year. Invading weeds can dominate the
planted grass seedlings by depriving them of water, light, and space.
Do NOT let weeds get higher than 12 to 14 inches before mowing. Cutting
down tall weeds can smother the grass seedlings below. If wildflowers
were included in the mixture, do not mow lower than 8 to 12 inches.
If a nurse crop is used, do not mow in the first year, unless weeds
become a serious problem. If weeds are dense and begin to grow up to
16 inches, cut them down along with the nurse crop to prevent shading-out
of desired grass seedlings.
Year Two. Once your stand has established itself, prescribed
or controlled burning is the most effective method of maintaining and
rejuvenating a stand of warm season grasses. Burn one-third of your
total grass acreage every year. Controlled burning will ensure a cleaner,
more valuable stand over a longer period of time. Burning is much easier
and less expensive than you might think; however, permits are required
and great care must be taken during the burning. Contact your local
county Forester (MD-DNR Forest Service) for permits and assistance (refer
to Fact Sheet 769 Riparian Buffer Financial Assistance
Opportunities).
Haying or grazing at the proper times, using proper methods, can also
help maintain a stand. Cut hay or graze to a minimum height of 6 inches.
It is important to rotate mowed or grazed areas on an annual basis.
Avoid, if possible, haying or grazing any stand during the peak nesting
period between April 15 and August 15. Disturbances during this time
period are detrimental to the reproductive success of the area's wildlife.
Note that certain management practices, such as haying or grazing,
are restricted under USDA programs such as the Conservation Reserve
Program. Contact your local NRCS (Natural
Resource Conservation Service) or Farm
Service Agency for details.
You can mow your grass to maintain it; however, this is not the most
desirable option. Once it is established, mow one-third of your stand
every year. Mowing will keep woody growth from encroaching, but repeated
mowing will create a layer of "litter" on the ground. This mulch layer
will eventually crowd grass seedlings. The mulch also makes it difficult
for young birds to move on the ground and makes the stand less attractive
to insects they eat. If you do decide to mow, it might be necessary
to lightly disk the stand every three or four years to turn over the
litter layer, destroy woody growth, and encourage dormant grass seed
and native annuals.
It is important to understand that you are required by law to control
noxious weeds, including Johnsongrass, jimsonweed and Canada thistle,
on your property. Should you encounter these species in your plantings,
your first priority should be control of these weeds, even at the expense
of the planted grasses. Contact your county weed control specialist
at the Maryland Department of Agriculture (410-841-5871) for more information.
Nurse Crops
Annuals or short-lived perennials that provide rapid soil stabilization
and help keep weeds down without competing with the grass/forb seedlings
are called nurse crops. Nurse crops can be planted at the same
time as the grass/forb seed. Mix the nurse crop seed with the grass/forb
seed and hand broadcast together. On large plantings, oats can be drilled
prior to, or after, seeding.
Oats: Apply at a rate of 50 pounds per acre in spring plantings. Use
100 pounds per acre in mid-autumn plantings, because it will winterkill.
Heavier seeding rates ensure better soil holding ability.
Wildlife Habitat Seeding Recommendations
Native Warm Season Mixtures (rates are per acre)
Mix 1: Upland/Dry Soils
- 3 Ibs. Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans)
- 2 Ibs. Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardi)
- 1 Ib. Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
Mix 2: Lowland/Moist Soils
- 3 Ibs. Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardi)
- 2 Ibs. Indiangrass (Sorphastrum nutans)
- 1 Ib. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)
Individual Stands:
Rates for seeding pure stands of individual grasses from the above-mentioned
mixtures:
- 7-15 Ibs. Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardi)
- 7-15 Ibs. Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
- 7-12 Ibs. Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans)
- 5-12 Ibs. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)
Listed below are other grasses that can be used for both wildlife habitat
and sediment filtering in a grassy buffer strip. Except for eastern
gamagrass and coastal panicgrass, these are cool season, non-natives
adapted to this area and utilized by wildlife. The seeding rates
given are per acre for pure stands.
- 8 Ibs. Coastal panicgrass (Panicum amarum var. amarulum)
- 7 Ibs. Eastern gamagrass (Tripsacum dactyloides)
- 6-8 Ibs. Reed canarygrass (Phalaris arundinacea)
- 4-25 Ibs. Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne)
- 4-6 Ibs. Orchardgrass (Dactylis glomerata)
- 3 Ibs. Weeping lovegrass (Eragrostis curvula)
In addition to the grasses recommended above, it is a good idea to
include a variety of forbs or wildflowers. Plant a premixed variety
at a rate of 1/4 pound per acre. The following is a partial list of
native species:
- Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
- New England aster (Aster novea angliae)
- Laceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata)
- Ox-eye sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides)
- Partridge Pea (Cassia fasciculata)
WARM SEASON GRASSES
Switchgrass
(Panicum virgatum)
Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) is a tall perennial warm season
grass, which is native to the eastern and central United States. It
is slow to establish, but once established Switchgrass competes well
with other grasses and brush, especially at low fertility (lower pH
limit 4.0 to 4.5). A good seed producer, Switchgrass provides both good
nesting cover and winter cover with its stiff stalks. Switchgrass spreads
by tillers and short, scaly rhizomes. Mature stands appear to be clumps
of plants rather than continuous sod. The ability of Switchgrass to
remain standing through the winter has proved superior to any other
grasses tested. Two to three years of careful management are needed
to establish a good stand of Switchgrass. However, once established,
and with proper management, a stand will last for twenty years or longer.
Being a warm season grass, it does not begin growth until late April
or early May. The most vigorous growth occurs from late June through
the end of August. The seed heads appear during August, then ripen in
late September. With the first hard frost, switch grass falls dormant,
and the aboveground plant parts turn yellow-brown.
It is important to be able to recognize the young seedlings. Many plantings
have been plowed under because landowners thought the seeding had failed,
when actually, there was a good stand of seedlings present.
Identifying characteristics of Switchgrass:
- A relatively stiff stem.
- Plants grow as clumps rather than continuous sod.
- The presence of straight white hairs on the top side of the leaf
near the collar where the leaf blade joins the sheath.
Wildlife Uses
In Maryland, Switchgrass is recommended as nesting cover and winter
cover for pheasants, quail, rabbits, and songbirds. It also provides
good protective cover for upland game and is well suited for use on
shooting preserves. The young sprouts are a source of food for wild
turkeys and rabbits. It may also be used as nesting cover by waterfowl.
Soil Conditions Suitable for Planting
It is preferable to plant switchgrass on well- or moderately well-drained
soils. Slightly well-drained and excessively well- drained soils are
acceptable for planting, but are less desirable. Results are less dependable
on somewhat poorly drained soils because, in addition to poor growth,
frost heaving is a problem. Switchgrass should not be planted on poor
or very poorly drained soils or on excessively well-drained sands. The
pH of the soil should be 5.5 or above.
Planting Recommendations
Kill perennial weeds and prepare a clean weed-free seedbed. Plant
seed with a drill or grass seeder 1/4 inch deep. In loamy soils, seed
should be planted 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep. In silt loams and clay loams,
the depth should not exceed 1/2 inch, but should be at least 1/4 inch
deep. Surface or broadcast seeding might reduce germination unless followed
with a cultipacker to firm the soil over the seed. Some nurseries will
provide seedlings as well as seed. Seeding should take place late- April
through early June. The soil must be warm (65°F or warmer) in order
to encourage rapid germination so that weed competition does not become
too damaging. If weeds become a problem they should be mowed to the
height of the switchgrass, but no closer than 4 to 6 inches from the
ground. Do not cut or mow switchgrass plants during the first year's
growth. Once established, stands require little or no maintenance except
occasional burning where left solely for cover.
Seeding Rates
Rates are based on pounds of Pure Live Seed (PLS) at 100 percent purity
and a 100 percent germination rate. Order seed in terms of PLS. You
will receive more seed than ordered because of the particular percent
germination and purity of the seed lot.
Seeding
Technique |
Lbs. PLS
Per Acre |
Lbs. PLS
per 1,000
Sq. Ft. |
Number of PLS
Seeds per
Sq. Ft. |
| No-till |
10 |
.23 |
90 |
| Drilled |
8 |
.18 |
70 |
| Broadcast |
10 |
.23 |
90 |
Order 2 to 5 pounds extra to allow for spillage and planter box loss.
To determine the actual pounds of seed to be planted per acre, use the
following formula:
| Ib. PLS/acre recommended |
= |
lb. of seed to plant |
| % germination x % purity |
Example:
If you want 10 Ib/acre and the seed tag reads 75% germination, 80%
purity, then your formula would be:
| 10 |
= |
16.6 Ib. seed to plant to
end up with 10lb/PLS |
| 75% x 80% |
Eastern Gamagrass
(Tripsacum dactyloides)
Characteristics
Eastern gamagrass is a native, perennial, warm season grass that grows
6 to 8 feet tall. It does best in moderately well-drained to somewhat
poorly drained soils. It will tolerate extended periods of flooding.
Once developed, its roots can extend down 8 to 10 feet into the soil
profile. Eastern gamagrass is the most palatable and nutritious warm
season grass. It is primarily used for forage and hay production and
is very valuable wildlife food and cover. It is not alkaline tolerant.
It is not recommended to include in seeding mixtures with other warm
season grasses.
Eastern gamagrass seed looks similar to small corn seed and is best
planted with a corn planter. The seed must be stratified prior to planting.
This is the only warm season grass that can be planted in both fall
and spring. Fall-plant after the first major frost. The seed needs three
to four cold months to break dormancy. The recommended cultivar is 'Pete',
which can be used for wildlife habitat enhancement, forage, and hay
production.
Little Bluestem
(Schizachyrium scoparium)
Characteristics
Little bluestem is a native, perennial, warm season grass. It is good
for wildlife habitat improvement. It grows to a height of 2 to 4 feet,
depending on site conditions. In the Northeast, it is usually found
in fallow fields, roadsides, and rights-of-way. Little bluestem is the
most drought tolerant of the warm season grasses. It is fair to excellent
for acid tolerance. Once developed, its roots can extend down 3 to 4
feet in the soil profile. Usually sown in mixtures with other native
grasses. The seed of Little bluestem is very fluffy and will only move
through grass drills equipped with a fluffy seed box.
Cultivars available are 'Aldous', 'Camper', and 'Blaze'. 'Aldous' is
leafy, vigorous, and shows some resistance to rust. It produces abundant
forage. 'Camper' is a long-lived perennial forage with maximum production
in mid-summer. 'Camper' can be used for forage production, wildlife
habitat enhancement, or critical area stabilization. 'Blaze' is leafy
and late-maturing. The foliage turns red in the fall. It is primarily
used in conservation plantings.
Big Bluestem
(Andropogon gerardii)
Characteristics
Big bluestem is a native, perennial, warm season grass. It grows 6
to 8 feet tall. It is deep-rooted (8 to 10 feet) and will grow on droughty,
low fertility, and acidic soils. It is the most drought-tolerant of
all the warm season grasses. It prefers sites with full wind and sun
exposure. In the Northeast, it is commonly found along railroads, stream
banks, and roadsides that are infrequently mowed. Leaf tips and stems
often have some bluish or purple color even during the growing season.
The seeds of Big bluestem are very fluffy and must be planted with a
warm season grass or "native seed" drill equipped with a fluffy seed
box.
There are many cultivars available ('Niagara', 'Kaw', and 'Roundtree'),
but the recommended cultivar is 'Niagara'. 'Niagara' is used for forage
production, land reclamation, and wildlife habitat enhancement.
Indiangrass
(Sorghastrum nutans)
Characteristics
Indiangrass is a native, perennial, warm season grass. It grows 3 to
8 feet tall depending on site conditions. Indiangrass is one of the
more beautiful native grasses. The panicle is bronze to yellow in color
and can grow to 8 to 12 inches long. Indiangrass can be used to provide
food and cover for wildlife, erosion control, forage, and hay production.
It is very acid-tolerant. Indiangrass is difficult to establish in pure
stands and is best used in mixtures. The seeds of Indiangrass are very
fluffy and must be planted with a warm season grass or "native seed"
drill.
There are many cultivars available ('Rumsey', 'Oto', and 'Holt'), but
'Rumsey' is the best suited for the Northeast.
For a list of grass/forb seed sources, refer to "PLANT
AND SEED SUPPLIERS".
References
Barnes, Robert R, Maurice E. Heath, and Darrel S. Metcaife, eds. 1985.
Forages: The Science of Grassland Agriculture (4th ed.).
Belt, Dean and Richard Taylor. 1988. Plants to Consider for Wildlife
Plantings in Delaware. (RR-4-90). University of Delaware Cooperative
Extension Service.
Capel, Stephen. 1985. North Carolina Benefits for Livestock and
Wildlife. Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries.
Capel, Stephen. 1985. Warm Season Grasses for Virginia. Virginia
Department of Game and Inland Fisheries.
"Field Crop Variety Recommendations for Maryland." 1982-83. University
of Maryland Cooperative Extension, Bulletin 249.
Growing Guide. 1995. Prairie Nurseries, P.O. Box 306, Westfield,
WI.
Habitat Program, recommendations by Paul Peditto and Peter Jayne, Maryland
Department of Natural Resources Wildlife and Heritage Division.
"Hay and Pasture Seedings for Maryland." 1989. University of Maryland
Cooperative Extension, Bulletin 299.
Reclamation and Environmental Grasses. 1985. Jacklin Seed Company.
USDA-NRCS. "Recommended Cultivars for Conservation Plantings," USDA-NRCS,
Pub. No. 908-246-1205.
USDA-SCS. May 1989. Conservation Plants for Special Sites: Using
SCS Cultivars for Conservation Cover.
USDA-SCS. "How to Plant and Maintain Switchgrass." Information Sheet
NY-63. Syracuse, NY.
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